After another feast of a breakfast, we got ready to leave Casacool for Khao Sok. Our lovely host Kai had phoned the local bus and told them to stop for us on the main highway road so that we could cheaply get there. She also dropped us off to the point on the main road at 10.45am. The bus was due at around 11am but in typical Thai fashion it didn't come until just passed 12pm. The bright orange bus was comfortable enough and we put our bags in the storage hold underneath. Once on the bus we paid for our tickets to Khao Sok (360B for both of us) which was a lot cheaper than the only minivans that ran to Khao Sok. After about 40 minutes the bus pulled in for a short rest stop at Takuapa bus station where we had chance to use the toilet and for more people to board. It was only about another 1hr from there as the bus was a much gentler speed that the minivan we got on the way. This just meant we got to take in our surroundings more. We were dropped off at the Khao Sok village junction with the main road where we then had a free transfer the couple of minutes to our hostel. We were grateful for this as the rain had started again.
Whilst in Khao sok village we were staying at Coco hostel. This was the first time on this trip that we were staying in a dorm room but the place was really nice. It had a communal restaurant area down stairs and a terrace with a good view at the top. They were also supposed to do fantastic tours of Khao sok national park/ chaweng lake. As soon as we got there we booked onto the overnight lake tour which was what we had come there for 2500B. But they did also have a range of other tour options and activities. They offered for us to go tubing with a group straight away but it was pouring rain and Dave also wanted to watch the rugby match. In the end that afternoon we ended up just hanging out in the restaurant area watching all the restaurants and having lunch as the rain was insane. Not the cheapest prices but decent food (paneng curry and rice and massaman and rice 120B each). After success with the England match the rain finally stopped and we headed our in the dark to have a wander, just looking at prices of local bars/ restaurants and having a desert roti for dinner (40 B each).
We had been warned that we were likely to get wet, especially with the rain atm so we packed up an overnight bag for the lake and made sure everything was in ziplocks and as waterproof as could be. Then we went to get our free breakfast, where we could choose anything from the alacarte menu. Proper coffees an avocado/ egg toast later and we were set for the day. At 9.30am we left with our group in a minivan for the 1 drive to the pier. The time flew by as we were all chatting away getting to know each other. There was a quick 5 minute stop at a local market to use the toilet and for people to pick up snacks by the edge of the lake. From there it was only another few minutes and we were at the entrance to the national park and pier. We gave our guide the 200 B entrance fee each and the 20 for the pier entrance and he sorted it for the whole group, bypassing the queues. It was raining a lot and everyone's waterproofs and ponchos got put on when we saw our longtail boat was not covered at all.
Once we boarded the soggy longtail we had to put on lifejackets and had an hour scenic cruise to get to the bungalows. The weather was dire and we were soaked. There was a lot of most and cloud cover around but through rain splashed glasses the lake was still brilliantly blue and the jungle and cliffs jutting out of the water were impressive. It's ashame the weather was so bad as usually that would be an immense start to a tour. Instead we were all quite grateful when the boat pulled around into an alcove revealing our wooden bungalows. We were allocated our rooms where we all had a bamboo raft house with a mattress on the floor and a fan that only work when the electricity was on between 6-10pm. The water looked so inviting and as we were already soaked we all jumped in the surprisingly warm water. It was surreal swimming in the rain surrounded by cliffs and deep jungle hiding lots of wildlife. Not long after this lunch was ready where we were treated to a selection of curries, rice and noodles with fruit as dessert.
Now was time for the jungle hike. We had waterproofs on, preparing to get wet from the rain and all had socks up high to ward off the leeches. We were warned there would be lots of mud and we were expecting that with the weather and we were even told that we might have to walk through the river briefly… all fine for a jungle hike. What we weren’t prepared for was a full on submersive river crossing where the river was raging, by just pulling ourselves along on a bit of rope- the guides had just tied after the old one broke! Everyone else went, I was hesitant and had to stop once before trying again, just not being prepared for how strong the current was. But we all made it safely and with adrenaline pumping now. This was good as after a short walk along the track we were at another river crossing- also with a really strong current but thankfully only waist deep. The rest of the hike we went through thick mud, several more river crossings and the last half an hour before the waterfalls we were just walking up the river! It was good fun but a lot more intense than people had been expecting. We all enjoyed the waterfalls and pool at the top taking a good few pictures and videos since we were all thoroughly wet anyway. We were so glad we didn’t take any bags or anything other than our phones in waterproof cases- and thank god for them! It was then a slog back the way we came, with us having to cross all the rivers again whilst it was not raining- so even more water.
It was fun, a challenge but we were glad to be back at the bungalows. I for one was scraped and bruised. Everything was soaked, including the inside of our waterproof boots which just stunk of river water and our waterproof jackets that were wet inside and out with pockets full of water! Once we all stripped off of the river clothing we jumped back in the lake to warm up and to feel slightly cleaner (despite it being the same water!). Shortly after this it stayed dry enough for us to head out on the lake in the boat for a while for an evening safari. We saw some hornbills at the top of the trees by our bungalows and watched some monkeys eating and playing on one of the banks. There was even a glimmer of sun briefly before we went back for a group dinner with various dishes, including fried fish from the lake. We all played some games on the terrace which was a real laugh before heading off to bed before the electricity went out and we couldn’t see to walk along the rafts.
The rain poured the majority of the night and was incredibly loud, as well as there being a whole chorus of animal noises that kept me awake most of the night. Giving up at 5am I sat out on our bungalow deck taking in where we were, watching the mist come and go and watching the rain pour down on the lake. It was magical but the weather meant that everything was still absolutely soaked. The morning safari kept being on/off due to the rain so me and Dave opted out of it, instead just chill on the deck reading and taking in the view with some bad coffee. The group went out briefly before it chucked it down and they were back quickly so we could all have pancakes for breakfast! After breakfast we had free time. Me and Dave went for a swim, whilst others kayaked or played guitar. Eventually it was time to check out so we packed up all the wet stuff (including our boots) into bin bag and waited in the restaurant. The rain was so bad it delayed us for a good hour and meant there was no point going to one of the viewpoints. So instead someone put on some tunes and we had a dance party in the restaurant. Then we ended up getting in the boat anyway when it was hammering down with rain and we spent the next hour getting battered by the rain as we made our way back to the pier. Everyone was knackered and cold on the bus back so it was a lot quieter than before.
Once back at the hostel me and Dave checked back in for the night whilst the majority of the group headed off to various other parts of Thailand. It meant we could shower, get our washing express done so it was clean and dry, book a minivan to Surat Thani for the day after and just generally have a chilled afternoon. We had coffee and cake at Coco whilst we were sorting some bits out and then went for a wander in the town where we got some really nice wood fire pizzas at Ciao Italiano (170B margaritas). More than we would usually spend but it was needed. Then we headed to bed, in need of some sleep so we could head to Surat Thani/ Chumphon the next day.
Thanks
Alex
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