To start our journey to Banue we had to take the overnight bus so we headed to Ohiyama Bus Station via a grab (267). We exchanged our details at the small counter for real tickets before sitting with all the locals in a very hot open-air waiting room on wooden slats watching basketball on an old TV. There were hardly any other travellers, which was exciting but also slightly worrying- is this place going to be worth an overnight bus journey (both ways). We boarded the bus at about 9.30pm. It was very basic leather seats and lots of room to start with due to there not being that many passengers. Unfortunately the air con was blasting all night though and we were above a faulty unit, which meant it was pointing straight at us and couldn’t be turned off. We had to layer on everything we had with us in our daypacks, including towels but it made no difference and we were freezing the entire night and did not sleep for any of the 10 hours! The bus stopped at about 2.30am for a basic toilet stop which we were grateful for and then again another few times to drop people off or load stuff on. There is not really another route up north so these buses are the only real way to get things up there. We arrived just before 8am absolutely freezing and with it chucking it down with rain, thinking what had we done- why did we not just go to a beautiful island! We were picked up from the bus by a shuttle tricyle for our accommodation where me and the bags went inside due to the rain and Dave got even wetter on the back.
We were very happy to arrive at 7th Heaven hostel despite the fact that we weren’t able to check in. It was on a hill overlooking the town and surrounding mountains. When we arrived due to the rain we couldn’t see any of that as it was so misty. However as we drank our coffee on the terrace the view began to clear and we were happy to have made the journey up to this stunning place. We chatted to the owner David about our options for tours whilst we were here as it is the only way to see things and get the best options and settled on a 3 day package. Day 1- Banuae viewpoint, Day 2- Batad and Banglaon, Day 3- Hapoe and hotsprings (4920 between us). We checked into our room and again were very happy with our view. It is amazing how a view can lift the spirits. We headed back up to the terrace restaurant for some breakfast as they did breakfast packages. I went for Longanisa sausage, rice and eggs with a coffee (150) and Dave had a veggie omelette, rice and coffee (150). The food was warm and filling exactly what we needed. We spent some time enjoying the view and playing with the house dog Pandan who was adorable before having a nap. We had plan to go to Banuae viewpoint as Day 1 of the tour however the weather wasn’t great so we decided to combine this with day 2 hoping for better weather. When the rain did stop in the end we went for brief walk through the village before going back to read, write notes and have dinner with a view. We had pancit (rice noodles with veg and pork) and there was so much food that neither of us could finish it (120 each).
After filling up on an enormous breakfast set (pancake, omelette and coffee 120) with a lovely view, we headed out on the trike with Mike for Day 1 of our tour of Banue. Thankfully the weather had cleared and we had sun! It was about 1 hour go Batad on the mountain roads in the trike but the views along the way were stunning and we stopped at a particularly nice view point along the way for photos. Due to Batad being up a very steep hill there were sections we had to get out of the trike and walk due to it struggling to get up the hill. Once at the top though we walked for 15 minutes to Batad Village, where we were greeted with fantastic views of Batad Irce terrace amiptheatre. We walked through local buildings and down through the rice terraces stunned by the views. We then took the very steep concrete stairs down to the Tappiya Falls. This was a very impressive waterfall about 50m high with the water running very fast at the bottom. We politely declined however nice it would have been to cool off was not worth getting caught in a fast moving current. Instead we sat and enjoyed the peaceful view eating some snacks and making towers out of stones. Then we had to make our way back up the very steep concrete steps. This was much harder and slower work than going down! We were offered and took lots of breaks on benches at points. On the return to Batad village we were glad to get some cold soft drinks before heading back to the trike. We the journeyed to Bangaan viewpoint of the terraces as well as Banue rice terrace viewpoints. The views were mostly green and sunny. In the evening we chilled out at 7th heaven reading, writing notes and having hot chocolate and beers before ordering pork adobo dinner (this time just ordering 1 portion for both of us which was still substantial) and playing cards.
We checked out and left our stuff at the hostel in a locker before having breakfast and going out for the final day of our tour. We stopped at a viewpoint to take some photos looking over the Hungolian rice terrace. At the border of Banuae and Hapoae barangay we had to pay the environmental fee and register at their office just over the boundary bridge. We also picked up Joesph our guide for this area. After another 10 mins on the trike we got out to follow the Bogya hot springs path. We headed down the path, up the track past the side of a country school, around the outside edges of rice fields on their 2000 year old stone terrace boundaries before passing a river and arriving at the hot springs after about an hour.
Joseph was very informative about the area, local culture and history. Catholiscm had been brought to the Philippines by the Spanish and consequently a lot of Filipinos are catholic. There were a high number of Japanese in the area during the World Wars and due to this the US bombed a lot of the area destroying a lot of the irrigation systems for the rice fields and for the hot springs. In this area the rice is only farmed once a year and there is black, white and sticky rice grown here. The men either planted rice or hunted dear in the forests for food. Dotted around the terraces were stones for sitting. These were only in pairs as odd numbers were bad luck, however if someone is widowed one of the seats was taken away. Joseph also showed us the national plant that locals use to decorate themselves with for rituals if a person is killed, to seek revenge or for celebration. The Hotsprings themselves are thermal water which the locals have rigged to be mixed with the river as it was previously too hot to be in. We relaxed in the water for short periods before cooling off in the river as it was still very hot. The hot springs have a small changing room and toilet if required. There were a few Filipino tourist there from up north who we had interesting conversations with and again also made stone towers with. We also saw beautiful black and blue butterflies.
On the way back Joseph also told us of a local tale, which gave to the name the Bloody Rice fields. It is customary when a parent dies if there are brothers for the oldest brother to get the rice fields and the youngest brother to have to the house. However when a member of the tribe died each son was give a rice field. The eldest son was not happy about this and they fought with them all ending up dead! When a person dies in this local culture they are buried then after a few months their bones are dug up, cleaned and put in boxes by the side of the house. If a person in the house is ever sick and they don’t know why they clean the bones and if they get better that was why. In Hapoe we saw them using a cable to get heavy materials down as there were no roads just tracks through the rice fields. After a very interesting and informative walk around the hot springs and rice fields we got back on the trike and headed to Hinwang native village. This gave us beautiful views of Banuae, San Ferdino and Hapoe terraces. At the village we saw traditional houses decorated with bones of slaughtered animals, as this would show how many feasts the members of the household had had. There was also lots of Japanese skulls of head hunters. Inside the straw room there were lots of wooden carvings, a firepit to cook,, ravens head dress for ceremonies, speres. Then we wounded our way back to 7th Heaven hostel where we showered, packed warm clothes into our day packs for the overnight bus and had dinner.
Thankfully the overnight bus on the way back to Manila wasn’t as frightfully cold but the driver did keep putting the lights on which meant little to broken sleep at best. We arrived in Manila at 4am, another great time to arrive in a city! This time on arrival to Z hostel (grab for 178) we were able to check in straight away and sleep for a few hours.
Due to the bus schedule from Banuae and the flight timteables to Palawan we ended up staying for another couple of days. Due to having seen a lot of what we wanted to in Manila already we just took the time to get normal stuff done- like taking washing to an actual laundrette (Flip and Fold Rush 60/kilo). We walked back to Plant Mall again to get basics such as suncream , batteries and use the ATM. Whilst we were there, there was a small local artisan food section where we had to try a Brownie from Buckys (80). We spent the rest of the day looking at places to stay and things to do in Palawan, skyped family and friends. We did round it off with free happy our drinks and sunset on the hostel roof terrance before another 7/11 dinner.
Our second day back in Manila we checked out, got 7/11 breakfast, sorted money and went to get our washing. Unfortunately it wasn’t ready but we needed our clothes back so instead still had dirty clothes but our money back at least. We had tacos at El Chupacarbra again as it was so delicious before getting a grab to terminal 4. Unfortunately there was very little in the airport but we chilled out for a couple of hours before getting our flight over to Palawan.
Alex
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